Santiago Calatrava, the world–renowned architect and sculptor, was born in Valencia. No surprise that some of his most famous buildings can be found in his hometown. The southern part of the city is dominated by his Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias – The City of Arts and Sciences – which consists of five amazing buildings.

–MARK

These came in especially handy for Gwyneth when the table was covered with plates of all kinds of pork. It’s important to keep everyone happy!

Serves 4
*1 pound sardines, cleaned and scaled
*Extra–virgin olive oil
*Coarse sea salt
*1 lemon, preferably from Valencia, cut into 4 or 8 wedges

Rub the sardines with just enough oil to make them slick, and sprinkle with salt. Put over a hot grill fire and cook until well marked with grill marks, 3 to 4 minutes; when the sardines are ready to be turned, they will release easily from the grill. Using a spatula, carefully turn and cook for 3 more minutes, or until just opaque throughout. Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with salt, and drizzle with a little more olive oil. Serve with the lemon wedges.

Fun fact in this week’s episode: when Gwyneth and Mario learn to make TWBP (The World’s Best Paella) in Valencia, Manuelo, their paella teacher, builds the fire out of wood from orange trees. The fragrance was incredible and most definitely penetrated the arroz. At home, you can make paella over a wood fire on even on the grill. Can’t hurt to drink a glass of orange juice, just to set the mood…

Spain has some of the most beautiful golf courses in Europe. I was sure to bring my clubs with me and was lucky to swing them in Galicia, Castilla y León and Valencia. Unfortunately I never got to play in Mallorca on this trip – but it’s got some of my favorite courses. Next time on the road…again.

–MARIO

Mario and Gwyneth grilled seafood with a local chef at a stunning coastal spot. Simple and unbeatable, this recipe is a lesson in great ingredients.

Serves 4
*1 large Mallorcan lobster (or Caribbean or Maine lobster)
*A few whole mackerel, cleaned and scaled
*1 rouget, cleaned and scaled
*12 large head–on shrimp in the shell
*Extra–virgin olive oil
*Mallorcan or Maldon sea salt

To kill the lobster, hold it firmly on a cutting board with its head toward you, plunge a sharp heavy knife into the center of the head, and quickly bring the knife down to the board, splitting the front of the lobster in half; turn it around and cut it completely in half. Rub the lobster, fish, and shrimp with olive oil and season with salt (including the cavities of the fish). Put over a hot grill fire (start the lobster shell side down) and cook the shrimp for about 2 minutes, the lobster and rouget for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the flesh is starting to become opaque; don’t give in to the temptation to flip too soon. Use a spatula to gently turn the shrimp, and then the lobster and fish, and cook for a few more minutes more, until just cooked through. Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with salt and olive oil, and dig in.

In this week’s episode, Mario and Claudia eat Mahón cheese in Menorca while the Fishermen’s Lobster Stew is bubbling away. Mahón is a cows’ milk cheese made in the Balearics, and it’s worth seeking out. It’s strong but not too assertive; firm, but not hard; and it’s delicious on a piece of good bread, alongside a glass of wine, or simply in thick slices straight from the wheel. Apparently in Menorca they usually eat it with a highball of gin and sour lemon juice.

Spain is known for its jamón, or dry– cured ham – many say it’s the best in the world. My travel companions regularly indulged their porcine affection. Claudia eats jamón every morning at breakfast, Mario and Mark both slipped slices onto their pan con tomate. I got a lot of slack for not succumbing to the jamón temptation, but there are a TON of special, particular Spanish foods that I’m thrilled to fill my plate with. After all, the more jamón they eat, the more anchoas (cured anchovies), berberechos (a type of clam), and Manchego (the renowned cheese) for me.

–GWYNETH